Our plan was to leave from Massorie to Shimla. But Balajee, a big Beatles fan, had s stupid dream where he saw himself walking on the streets of Rishikesh with a Beatles T-shirt on. So we just had to live the dream and we ended up in Rishikesh. I am so glad that he had the dream, we were so close to missing the great Rishikesh.
One evening we went to Swarg Ashram, where Ganga Aarti is conducted every evening. Beautiful green hills in the backdrop, rapidly flowing River Ganga, the Ram Jhula bridge across the river, a temple on the banks of the river, a big snow-white statue of Lord Shiva on a built wooden island, devotees and travellers sitting on the steps of the bank facing the Shiva statue, Bhajans and hymns being sung with quivering voices accompanied by the excited clapping of hands, religious fervour is in the air and the devotion is palpable - "Religion is the opiate of the masses".
Even to me, an atheist, the Ganga Aarti ceremony was a strong impressive experience. I was sitting there and couldn't help becoming a part of the singing and clapping. You don't have to be a believer to be a part of this experience. It moved me to see such doubtless faith, devotion, helplessness and expectancy in the eyes of the people. If the idea of God will give some hope and peace of mind to the believers, then maybe it is not such a bad idea after all.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
"Money Talks and Bullshit Walks"
One of the best things about travel is all the interesting people you meet. I have been lucky to have my share of them and I think a good number of posts will be about the people experiences. Let me start with my first experience.
Balajee and I were about to board a bus to Dehradun from Delhi. We decided to have a cup of chai (again) and it is there that I had one of my best experience of the trip. An Anglo(dad)-Nepali(mom)-India (living) started speaking to us. He asked us about out travel plans, where we were form etc. and informed us about his home town, work, etc.
"I live alone, that gives me the freedom to lead life on my terms. Money is not important in life but I see how my relatives cling to me just because of the money I have. None of them will care about me if it weren't for my money. Experiences are important in life", he said. He spoke so much about Life, Money, Relationships, his travels, his younger days and they all made so much sense because he was speaking from his heart and from his experiences.
He endorsed our plan to quit our jobs and travel. In a society where most people advise to play it safe and secure the future, where travelling is considered 'waste' of time and money, any approval of our travelling is welcome. "Like they say", he signed off, "Money Talks and Bullshit Walks".
The randomness of the incident struck me. This is incidents we read about in Lonely Planet books, not things that happen to us. It touches me that an absolute stranger can be kind and open enough to share his deep thoughts. I guess we need to open up antennas of our mind and be receptive to people. And then random things like this will randomly keep happening.
A guy at the chai shop, the Anglo-Nepali-Indian's friend (don't know his name), was rolling up a nice and special Ciggie, some unknown Mary Jane brand. He was kind enough to let me take a couple of puffs.
Balajee and I were about to board a bus to Dehradun from Delhi. We decided to have a cup of chai (again) and it is there that I had one of my best experience of the trip. An Anglo(dad)-Nepali(mom)-India (living) started speaking to us. He asked us about out travel plans, where we were form etc. and informed us about his home town, work, etc.
"I live alone, that gives me the freedom to lead life on my terms. Money is not important in life but I see how my relatives cling to me just because of the money I have. None of them will care about me if it weren't for my money. Experiences are important in life", he said. He spoke so much about Life, Money, Relationships, his travels, his younger days and they all made so much sense because he was speaking from his heart and from his experiences.
He endorsed our plan to quit our jobs and travel. In a society where most people advise to play it safe and secure the future, where travelling is considered 'waste' of time and money, any approval of our travelling is welcome. "Like they say", he signed off, "Money Talks and Bullshit Walks".
The randomness of the incident struck me. This is incidents we read about in Lonely Planet books, not things that happen to us. It touches me that an absolute stranger can be kind and open enough to share his deep thoughts. I guess we need to open up antennas of our mind and be receptive to people. And then random things like this will randomly keep happening.
A guy at the chai shop, the Anglo-Nepali-Indian's friend (don't know his name), was rolling up a nice and special Ciggie, some unknown Mary Jane brand. He was kind enough to let me take a couple of puffs.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
North India South India
One evening as I was enjoying an evening roadside Chai in Delhi, a young man in mid-twenties started speaking to me. On learning that I was from Bangalore, he said he lived in Bangalore for five months and then left the city because he was fed up with the 'attitude' of the people and dur to language problem. He waxed eloquent about one India and how he was appaled to see the North India - South India divide in a cosmopolitan city like Bangalore. He narrate instances when he was treated badly by localites becuse he spoke in Hindi to them.
I am sorry that a guy coming to my city had to face this and that he carries such an impression about my fellow "localites" from Bangalore. But please let me say the below in defence of my city and my people -
The main cause for such frictions is the language. Not that we hate Hindi or other languages but simply that we dont understand the language. Our North Indian friends are baffled when they hear that we South Indians cannot speak Hindi - the "National Language"!! But what they fail to realise is that they cannot stuff down a language down the throat of the minority just because an arguable majority speaks it. It is grossly unfair to expect that the minority should learn the language of the majority - by that logic many religious nation states could impose the national religion on the minority.
What they fail to realise is that millions of people cannot learn a new foreign language just because someone in Delhi declared it to be the National Language. To better explain my point - Imagine China occupies us tomorrow (Devil Forbid) and a new nation is born with Mandarin as the National Language. Can all Indians then start speaking Chinese. It doesn't happen that way right.
So without understanding this simple logic, if my North Indian friends pose the ridiculous "Aapko Hindi Nahin Aati!!!??!" (You cant speak Hindi !!!??), to hapless South Indians, you are bound to have unpleasan experiences. Every person would like to express him/herself. And we all know that we express ourselves best in the language closest to our hearts which is mostly the mother tongue.
It is sad that in India, language is often used as a tool to exhibit chauvinism.
(I too am a culprit of the same. I am very proud of Kannada Literature winning seven Jnanapita Awards (nation's highest literary prize), even though I haven't read a single one of them!)
I am sorry that a guy coming to my city had to face this and that he carries such an impression about my fellow "localites" from Bangalore. But please let me say the below in defence of my city and my people -
The main cause for such frictions is the language. Not that we hate Hindi or other languages but simply that we dont understand the language. Our North Indian friends are baffled when they hear that we South Indians cannot speak Hindi - the "National Language"!! But what they fail to realise is that they cannot stuff down a language down the throat of the minority just because an arguable majority speaks it. It is grossly unfair to expect that the minority should learn the language of the majority - by that logic many religious nation states could impose the national religion on the minority.
What they fail to realise is that millions of people cannot learn a new foreign language just because someone in Delhi declared it to be the National Language. To better explain my point - Imagine China occupies us tomorrow (Devil Forbid) and a new nation is born with Mandarin as the National Language. Can all Indians then start speaking Chinese. It doesn't happen that way right.
So without understanding this simple logic, if my North Indian friends pose the ridiculous "Aapko Hindi Nahin Aati!!!??!" (You cant speak Hindi !!!??), to hapless South Indians, you are bound to have unpleasan experiences. Every person would like to express him/herself. And we all know that we express ourselves best in the language closest to our hearts which is mostly the mother tongue.
It is sad that in India, language is often used as a tool to exhibit chauvinism.
(I too am a culprit of the same. I am very proud of Kannada Literature winning seven Jnanapita Awards (nation's highest literary prize), even though I haven't read a single one of them!)
A Saturday Evening in Delhi
One evening we took the very efficient Delhi Metro and landed ourselves in the Chandni Chowk area. Our plan was to feast on all the street junk food and that was to be our dinner. So we started with Ballas, moved on to Chole Dal Chat, Bhajjis, Jelebis, Lime Soda and ended it with golgoppe or pani puri as they are known in Bangalore. From here we took a long auto ride to Safdarjang Enclave because one of our friend said that a particular Greek drink called Ouzo at the upmarket 'It's Greek to Me' is a must try and moreover it was a Saturday night.
Gupta and I were served our much awaited cocktail of Ouzo and Vodka. The first sip warned that it is not going to be an easy drink. It was pure raw Vodka and Ouzo, a stronger spirit than Vodka. The strong drink ensured we took a real long time to finish it as we enjoyed our communal smoke along. When we ran out of our patience after an hour or so we just did a bottoms up and gulped down the remaining half or so of the glass. One smooth flow down to the stomach and a sharp knock up in the brain. You see - we are used to drinking at faster rates and it will harm our reputation to sit with a single drink for an hour - even if it is RAW Vodka and Ouzo.
Meanwhile Balajee finished two drinks of a cocktail that tasted roughly like Milo mixed with Chocolate Milk. Wonder what he was thinking when he ordered the second one.
Gupta and I were served our much awaited cocktail of Ouzo and Vodka. The first sip warned that it is not going to be an easy drink. It was pure raw Vodka and Ouzo, a stronger spirit than Vodka. The strong drink ensured we took a real long time to finish it as we enjoyed our communal smoke along. When we ran out of our patience after an hour or so we just did a bottoms up and gulped down the remaining half or so of the glass. One smooth flow down to the stomach and a sharp knock up in the brain. You see - we are used to drinking at faster rates and it will harm our reputation to sit with a single drink for an hour - even if it is RAW Vodka and Ouzo.
Meanwhile Balajee finished two drinks of a cocktail that tasted roughly like Milo mixed with Chocolate Milk. Wonder what he was thinking when he ordered the second one.
An afternoon in a busy street
We settled ourselves in a budget hotel in the Paharganj area. We got a good deal, never mind that the taps let out yellowish-orange water.
After a filling heavy sumptuous lunch (It costed Rs. 82 for three of us, how often do we go to such small restaurants back home) we decided to stroll aimlessly on the narrow busy streets of Paharganj. Cycle-rickshaws struggling for space with luxury cars, shopkeepers trying to woo passerby in, Foreign tourists amused/irked with sales persons, shops that line the street selling clothes, cell phones, medicines, shoes, electronics, restaurant tailor made for tourists, roadside eateries etc.......
so many images to take in while also ensuring that you don't bump into a moving vehicle or another pedestrian. We reached the busy junction near New Delhi Railway Station, sat there and read our newspapers unmindful of the busy metropolis junction around us. We could have been in our living rooms.
I wonder if I ever did this in my 12 hour work days with a busier weekend life in Bangalore. I couldn't remember the last time I sat on the footpath of Jayanagar or Basavangudi and watched the street brimming with life. I guess this is one of te best things about travelling - It gives you time to sit on the streets and watch the world go by.
After a filling heavy sumptuous lunch (It costed Rs. 82 for three of us, how often do we go to such small restaurants back home) we decided to stroll aimlessly on the narrow busy streets of Paharganj. Cycle-rickshaws struggling for space with luxury cars, shopkeepers trying to woo passerby in, Foreign tourists amused/irked with sales persons, shops that line the street selling clothes, cell phones, medicines, shoes, electronics, restaurant tailor made for tourists, roadside eateries etc.......
so many images to take in while also ensuring that you don't bump into a moving vehicle or another pedestrian. We reached the busy junction near New Delhi Railway Station, sat there and read our newspapers unmindful of the busy metropolis junction around us. We could have been in our living rooms.
I wonder if I ever did this in my 12 hour work days with a busier weekend life in Bangalore. I couldn't remember the last time I sat on the footpath of Jayanagar or Basavangudi and watched the street brimming with life. I guess this is one of te best things about travelling - It gives you time to sit on the streets and watch the world go by.
Begining with Train Journey
It was less than three hours before I board my train to Delhi and I was still packing and in between listening to my brother's advice. The day had finally arrived, when I would begin my long-awaited backpacking across North India. I didn't know the places I would like to visit, how long I would travel, where I will go after Delhi or even where I will sleep in Delhi.
Balajee, Gupta and I found our places in the second class coach of 'Sampark Kranthi' Express. Dirty compartments, Stinking toilets, Bothersome (if unlucky) co-passengers, Vendors and Beggars who won't leave you alone etc etc - Horrible Right? But No.... in spite of all this an Indian train journey is one of the best travelling experience. Those small and long bridges, lakes an rivers, green and brown hills, farmers ploughing and weeding their lands, the bustle of the big stations and the calm in the small stations, the yummy snacks in the stations, interesting and jovial c0-passengers... and when you are bored of all this - drowning yourself in a book or drowning your thoughts wit music.
Twilight is my favorite part of a day. And twilight becomes all the more enchanting when you are in a train that is speeding through the Indian country side with views of small villages and vast agricultural lands. So I sat there by the window, mesmerised by the twilight, wondering about all the experiences this backpack will bring about. The experiences that will make this backpack trip one of my best Life experiences.
Balajee, Gupta and I found our places in the second class coach of 'Sampark Kranthi' Express. Dirty compartments, Stinking toilets, Bothersome (if unlucky) co-passengers, Vendors and Beggars who won't leave you alone etc etc - Horrible Right? But No.... in spite of all this an Indian train journey is one of the best travelling experience. Those small and long bridges, lakes an rivers, green and brown hills, farmers ploughing and weeding their lands, the bustle of the big stations and the calm in the small stations, the yummy snacks in the stations, interesting and jovial c0-passengers... and when you are bored of all this - drowning yourself in a book or drowning your thoughts wit music.
Twilight is my favorite part of a day. And twilight becomes all the more enchanting when you are in a train that is speeding through the Indian country side with views of small villages and vast agricultural lands. So I sat there by the window, mesmerised by the twilight, wondering about all the experiences this backpack will bring about. The experiences that will make this backpack trip one of my best Life experiences.
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